Checchino dal 1887
Located in Testaccio since 1887 this restaurant is a real institution in Rome. Here the ‘Coda alla vaccinara’ was invented.
Here we are in the heart of Testaccio, right in front of the old slaughterhouse, since 1887 the Mariani family has been feeding Romans and non-Romans alike. The restaurant is classic in every detail, on the walls there are old paintings of Rome, the liqueurs are displayed in a display case, the waiters use trolleys to bring wines or liqueurs to the table and at the back of the room there are two sideboards from the 20’s, everything is done to create a quite but also refined atmosphere. Traditional Roman dishes dominate the menu, but this restaurant in particular is famous for having invented the recipe for ‘La coda alla vaccinara’. It all started after the construction of the slaughterhouse, when the vaccinators, those who divided the cows into quarters, started going to Sora (lady) Ferminia, Checchino’s mother, to have the animal waste cooked, here in Rome we call it the ‘quinto quarto’ fifth fourth, and therefore also the tail. Needless to add that the dish is very good, I am just going to tell you that the meat cooks for more than five hours.
Before you leave if there aren’t too many people, try asking Francesco Mariani, if he can show you around his cellar, it’s excavated under Mount Testaccio and you can see the shards of Roman amphorae, it’s a magical and unique place, Mr. Francesco enriches it with his anecdotes, surely it is something to see.
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